In the Jin Dynasty, the material of socks was generally used by nobles. According to the "Golden History·Yufuzhi" record: "The uses the filuo, and the cotton is added." The ordinary people use the leather. The 139th volume of "Ancient and Modern Shuohai": "Golden Custom: The poor are used as clothes in spring and summer. In autumn and winter, it is also the skin of cows, horses, pigs, sheep, cats, dogs, fish and snakes. Or roe deer and elk skins are used for trousers and shirts. Tights are made of leather."
In the dresses of the Yuan Dynasty, socks were made of silk. The "Yuan History · Yufu Zhi" quoted the Yuan Dynasty emperor's crown service system described in the "Taichang Ji Li", "the red silk is made of red silk." After cotton was widely planted in the Yuan Dynasty, socks began to be made of cotton.
In the Ming Dynasty, according to the records of "Ming Shi", the supporting footwear of the dung suit included socks and scoops. In ancient times, the sacrificial clothing of scholars was generally made of silk, so the stockings of the dungeon clothing were silk stockings. Yellow was used in the 16th year of Ming Hongwu, and the red color was restored after 3 years of Yongle. There is a record of the crown ceremony in both the "Da Ming Hui Dian" and the "Ming History". According to the records, in the ceremony, at the beginning of the extra period, during the royal crown ceremony, the emperor wears red socks, the prince wears red socks, and the prince wears white socks. , Shishu crowned white socks; in the royal crown ceremony, both the prince and prince wore white socks, the official "Son" crowned the white socks, and the soldier crowned the white socks; in three overtime, the royal crown During the ceremony, the prince and the prince all wore red socks, and the prince was wearing white socks.
Although there is no record about the specific shape of socks in the Ming Dynasty in the early documents, it is described in the "Book of Rites" and "Sancai Tuhui" of later generations. The socks in the dress of the King of Korea bestowed by the Emperor Ming Dynasty also have image forms left behind. Like this picture, the garter belt is attached to the upper end of the socks, which is consistent with the actual objects in the Han Dynasty. It is possible that this kind of shape has been retained according to the early shape. Judging from the socks unearthed in Dingling, the use of socks of this shape can also be proved.
The shape of men's and women's socks was basically the same in the Ming Dynasty. The socks were generally longer, with textures such as silk, silk, satin, felt, velvet, and cloth. According to different seasons, there were single socks, clip socks, and cotton (or cotton) socks. There are a lot of records about socks in the book "Jin Ping Mei Ci Hua" in the Ming Dynasty. The men's socks mentioned are mainly silk socks, wool socks, felt socks, cloth socks, etc., and wool socks are the most. For example, in the 33rd round, the Korean Daoguo "wore a set of light gauze and soft silk clothes, a new helmet with a hat, a fine mesh ring, black satin shoes, and clear water stockings", and 67 times. , Chen Jingji wore "puxie fleece socks", 68 times, Wen Xiucai wore "cloud fleece socks". The second volume of Ming Fan Lian's "Yun Jian Yi Mu Du" said: "Songjiang has no summer socks shop, and there are many people who wear felt socks during the summer months. Since Wanli, youdun cloth has been used as single summer socks, which is extremely light and beautiful. When I bought it...In Jiajing, people used Zhenjiang felt socks. In recent years, they all used wool socks. The socks were still white. For those who couldn't handle it, dry cashmere socks were used. The price is very low, and it is inconsistent with wool socks." Socks of other textures, for example, in the second round, Ximen Qing wore "fine-knotted Chenqiao shoes, clear water socks", and in the 66th round, Huang Zhenren changed to the altar dress, "white silk soft socks under my feet" In the ninety-third time, Xing'an saw Chen Jingji's loneliness and gave him a pair of "felt socks" among the clothes and socks.
The shape of women's socks in Ming and Qing dynasties is roughly the same as that in Song and Yuan dynasties. In addition to wearing half socks in winter, there are also socks that put on the bottom of the socks in addition to the foot binding. Commonly known as "socks", there are also "socks".
The men's socks of this period are made of various materials and are selected according to the different seasons. In the spring and autumn season, cloth socks are mostly worn, and the colors used are mainly self-colored, which are commonly called "clean socks". After the late autumn, felt socks and fleece socks are mainly worn. These socks are woven with soft wool and white. In the twelfth lunar month, leather socks are mainly worn. As for summer, summer socks are generally worn, made of cotton and linen fabric, which are light and sparse and have good air permeability. Because they are only worn in summer, they are commonly called "summer socks."
A pair of plain silk and cotton socks for each male and female were unearthed from the tomb of the Ming Xufan couple in Taizhou, Jiangsu. Men's socks are light bean yellow, lining plain silk, cotton quilted inside, with a 17cm fork opening at the back, and a plain silk tie with a length of 74cm and a width of 1cm on each side. The socks are tied from back to front. The sock is 66cm high and bottom. Length 26cm, tube circumference 52cm; women's socks are light brown, plain silk lining, a thin layer of cotton lining, a 9cm fork is opened at the back of the sock, and a plain satin lace is nailed to the center of the front upper part of the sock, divided into two left and right. Tie from front to back. The sock is 41cm high, 23cm long, and 23cm wide. From the above information, we can see that Zhenjiang felt socks were popular during the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty. After Wanli, men began to use oil dun socks. With the development of the handicraft industry, white cashmere socks for the nobles appeared, and the common people wore dry cashmere socks. Its materials have changed and become more diverse, including silk stockings, Luo socks, brocade socks, felt socks, clip socks and so on. In addition, there are summer socks for summer, cotton socks for winter, and bow socks with the head upturned, which looks like a bow.
The second volume of Ming Fan Lian's "Yun Jian Shi Mu Du" also recorded the operation mode of the socks industry at that time. "Therefore, the county governs the western suburbs, and there are more than one hundred socks shops in Guangkai. Men and women in He County use socks as Lord, raising value from the store is also convenient for the people and new services." These "hejun men and women" who make socks for a living have actually become hired laborers "raising value" from summer socks shops. , The owner of the summer socks has transformed into a capitalist. This is a very typical case of the budding of capitalism in the Ming Dynasty, and his operation is completely close to that of a modern hosiery satellite factory.
In the Qing Dynasty, the official Mianfu system was gradually cancelled. The emperor's socks in the Forbidden City were mostly bordered by gold satin and embroidered with patterns. Folk socks are generally made of cotton, while nobles use silk and satin socks.
At the time in the Eight Banners Camp, "Men’s socks are also very particular. The ordinary socks are bleached white cloth, fish white cloth, purple medicated cloth and cyan cloth. It is better to wear socks to be thin and thin. There must be no diagonal. The face of the socks is sewn with colored threads, and the color matching is also very strict. For example, the face of fish white socks with green socks, purple socks with rose purple socks, and cyan socks with white socks, must match beautifully."
Western Forms in the Same Period
The Normans conquered Britain in 1066. Modern stockings have played an important role in the development of clothing, especially for men. The women at the time were wearing long skirts that covered their legs, so their stockings could not be displayed. But men's clothing fashion shortens the length of the clothes, from robes to jackets. The breeches were abandoned. When this happens, men extend their stockings from the knees to the legs in real life to meet the needs of crotch protection. These new sock-like "tights" have received attention. Therefore, at this time, stockings have begun to evolve from two trouser legs (stocking legs) into a piece of clothing that extends from the waist to the ankle, covering the entire leg. This change lasted from the late 16th century to the 17th century. These stockings are made of fine silk, wool or velvet, with bright colors and very decorative. Because they are very tight, they can show the strengths and weaknesses of every muscle in the leg. In some works of the time, this style was considered undecent.
Socks appeared in the Crusades called Shaw, but they were not for ladies. Crusaders used pure silk fabrics to make more exquisite socks. The ladies decorated their ankles with delicate shoes, which appeared and disappeared under the beautiful skirts. At that time, socks were the patent of men.
In Europe at the beginning of the 14th century, stockings were more decorative, and people were more concerned about their appearance changes. Stockings were worn in different lengths: from below the calf, knees, thighs, and some stockings reached the waist. , Easy to fasten in the jacket or fixed on the belt.
In the further development of textile technology, the skills of making socks have been gradually mastered by people, and they are made with beautiful and suitable fabrics. Some stockings have leather stitched on the bottom to make them more durable. Bottom stockings became the norm and continued until the late 15th century. In the late 14th century, exaggerated foot socks became fashionable. The diagonal cut makes the stockings more stretchable. At this time, the fashion of socks has been further changed. Socks began to use different colors, and even different colored stripes for each leg. Among them, the dark red material is representative. This big red fine stretch wool fabric is very suitable for making socks. It is dyed in many colors, but red is undoubtedly the most successful one. This red is what we call scarlet today.
The stockings of the 15th century are characterized by pointed toes and thin lines. Some stockings are stitched with leather at the bottom, and socks can be used as shoes. The stockings are mostly medium-length. The upper edge of the stockings is folded in the shape of a fold, and sometimes there are exquisite gemstone ribbons inlaid on the socks. The colors of the socks are mostly the same, but a few of them are in dual colors, that is, the colors of the two socks are different. Farmers often have to fold the upper part of the sock to the knee to protect the leg. The stockings of the 16th century are more fit than before, with bright colors and beautiful styles. Socks are sometimes different from left to right, with stripes decoration. The Swiss first designed the openings and cuts of the socks to make the socks more unique. At this time, the production of stockings began to change. Some socks were changed to upper and lower sections. The upper end was in the shape of trousers, while the lower end was still in the shape of sock. For the convenience of wearing, two types of socks became popular in the society at the same time. By the middle of the 16th century, the appearance of stockings was very different from the past, with new decoration methods, such as inserting a few cloth strips, piercing holes or embroidering them. The upper end of the socks is smooth and clean, the middle part is appropriately widened, and the lower end is close to the body. Because it is made by hand-knitting, it can be embellished. The decorative design on the ankle or side of the socks is called clock.
The advantages of various socks knitted with knitting technology have become very obvious. Nevertheless, until the nineteenth century, knitting machines and hand weaving techniques still existed simultaneously. At the same time old style knit socks are still worn, but knit socks are becoming more and more popular. Knitted fabric is better than woven fabric because it retains the shape of the original socks, and it is more suitable for the foot shape, but also more comfortable and flexible, and provides more designs and color options. At this time, the ladies also began to wear socks.
Soon, the Frenchman Fournier started producing stockings in Lyon. In the 16th century, the French court and high society ladies and ladies were almost crazy about Spanish stockings, among which red, orange, and purple were top grades. But in fact, the users of silk stockings are mainly their husbands and lovers. At that time, a standard dress was: gorgeous puffy shorts, the latest stockings (sometimes showing the socks fixed with ribbons and bows) and shiny high heels. The face was also covered with thick cream and smear. Wearing rouge lipstick, variegated stockings were once popular, and the two legs are different in color and colorful.
At that time, both Italy and Spain were producing this kind of hand-woven silk stockings, which soon became popular in European countries. Spain and Italy were the regions with advanced metal processing at the time, and small crochet hooks suitable for finer and more delicate work were manufactured. According to information, Henry VIII's precious possession is a pair of Spanish silk knitted stockings. Henry's first pair of Silk stockings was a gift from the silk stocking importer Sir Thomas to Henry in the UK. Sir Thomas continued his business during the reign of Elizabeth I. Queen Mary I of Scots also wore knitted stockings. When Mary was executed in 1586, she wore a pair of white knitted stockings with green garters.
When Elizabeth I ascended the throne in 1558, the knitting process began to spread throughout Europe. Records indicate that in 1560, a lady named Montagu gave the queen a pair of silk knitted stockings as a New Year gift, 1588 In 1991, Ms. Monta used pink and other different colors on her stockings, and the stockings appeared colorful and fashionable. At this time, it became popular for women to knit silk stockings at home. Women gained partial financial independence. At the same time, they often forgot to go to church because of knitting stockings. In 1589, William Lee, a student of the British Theological Seminary, was inspired by his wife’s frequent neglect of worship because of hand-knitting, which led to his research on knitting machinery and invented the world’s first hand-knitting machine. Used to weave wool pants. In 1598, it was remodeled into a knitting machine that can produce finer stockings, using crochet knitting to produce shaped stockings. This means that socks can be knitted 6 times faster than by hand. This machine can produce knitting machines for finer stockings, thus completely changing the history of handmade socks. This machine became a British national treasure at that time, and anyone who wants to steal it abroad will be sentenced to death. Later, the desperadoes took it to the American continent on the Mayflower.
In 1588, New York in the United States opened the first knitting school. In 1591, US President Lincoln opened knitting courses in other schools to help the poor and provide employment opportunities. By the end of the 17th century, 10,000-20,000 pairs of stockings were exported from the UK to other parts of Europe. At this time, the hosiery industry had become a highly specialized industry.
In 1849, the single-cylinder circular hosiery machine appeared as the latch needle began to be used in small-caliber circular knitting machines. At first, tailored socks were produced, and it was not until 1857 that socks with bag-shaped heels and toes were woven. In 1864 the British W. Cotton invented the Cotton Hosiery Machine (crochet flat knitting machine). In 1900, the double-cylinder circular hosiery machine appeared as the double-headed latch needle began to be used on small-caliber circular knitting machines to knit ribbed socks. The socks can be knitted by a special mechanism on a sock machine, or transferred to the sock machine manually after being completed by other machines. Socks, high heels, sock heels, sock feet (including soles and sock tops), reinforcement loops and toe sections are knitted by hosiery machines.
In 1879, European countries imported knitwear into China, and foreign socks, gloves and other knitwear were introduced to the mainland through ports such as Shanghai, Tianjin and Guangzhou. Affected by this, merchants set up knitting enterprises one after another in major import ports along the coast, and socks are mostly knitted products since then.
[1] Henry VIII was the second monarch of the Tudor dynasty, king of England and Ireland. He is the second son of Henry VII and Queen Elizabeth of England.
[2] Elizabeth I, named Elizabeth Tudor, was the last monarch of the Tudor dynasty, the queen of England and Ireland, and the nominal queen of France. She is the daughter of Henry VIII and his second wife Anne Boleyn. In 1558, Elizabeth's half-sister Mary I died, and Elizabeth succeeded to the throne. On January 15, 1559, Elizabeth was officially crowned Queen of England.
[3] Mary I, Queen of Scots, is the ruler of Scotland and Queen of France. Her life was full of tragedy, and she became the most famous among Scottish monarchs. Queen Mary I of Scots and Queen Mary I of England (ie the sister of Elizabeth I in the note above: cousin of Queen Mary I of Scots, grandfather is Henry VII, nicknamed "Bloody Mary") because of the roughly the same reign, they are often Human error.
